i live on a chainTo describe the quality of a recent Bollywood film, a friend said it was a "Bollywood 7, global 5."
and you share the same last name
as a joke
i sent a bottle of whiskey
as you choked
i knew it made you feel dirty
His rating system's become useful for us describing life here. At a local "posh" cafe where the ladies of leisure in Chennai lunch, another friend asked me about my gnocchi. It was a Chennai 8, global 3.5, possibly even a global 3.
You see, Chennai, and India in general (except for perhaps Mumbai and Delhi) lacks international cuisines. A few restaurants venture into "multicuisine," but I hold those places in about as much regard as "Jimmy's Chicken Shack" around the corner from my apartment in DC, which served "subs, Chinese, Italian, and fish." You need to be a little bit selective to do something well.
So even to have gnocchi in Chennai is a feat. (I know all of 3 restaurants in the whole city of 4.34 million which serve it.)
But was it good? Well, it was overcooked and the gnocchi were starting to mush into each other. The sauce was nonoffensive, but nothing to write home about (though I guess that's what I'm doing right now.)
Hence, the Chennai 8, global 3.5.
It works the other way, too, though.
Indian food? Chennai 10, India 10, global 4.
Availability and affordability of mangoes, watermelons, and other fruits and fruit juices? Chennai 9, Hyderabad 5, India 7, global 3.
Mustaches? Chennai 9, Hyderabad 9, Bangalore 7 (they are catching onto the Wester disdain for the mouche), India 7 (the north isn't as a big a fan as the south), global 2 (do I know anyone in America with a mustache?)
Ability to not be in a rush all the time? Chennai 9, Hyderabad 8, India 8, America 1.
My presence on the city's Society pages? LA 1, NY 0, Boston -2, DC 1, Hyd 7, and Chennai 8. Explanation: I had no money in New York, I had like no friends in Boston, in LA and in DC I knew enough people never to make it in the papers myself but knew people who did... and weirdly, in Hyderabad and in Chennai, my friends are at some Twilight Zone-like club where everyone regularly poses for the photogs for "Page 3." I did it twice in the last week.
Globally, I'm a 0. Chennai, I'm at least above 5, just because I'm a foreigner and I have pretty, tall, blond and brunette foreigner friends who drink and wear cute clothes.
Except - maybe globally I'm not a 0. I do give myself some props for doing whatever I've done in my 20s. Fucked up a lot but also did some cool shit, and a lot of it for which much of the general population wouldn't have been the best fit.
So if I'm a 5 in Chennai just by how I look and with whom and where I hang out, it's comforting to know that I think of myself in America or elsewhere as more than that, these days, just because of who I am.
Two years ago, that wasn't the case.
I've found that people who come to India in search of some kind of personal revelation or salvation are often disappointed. The reality of the country and life is here very different than doing bikram yoga or watching a Bollywood film in the States.
As I am almost about to leave, I'm very reflective these days. When I decided to move to India, I didn't come explicitly with the goal in mind of "finding myself." Rather, I came for a career change. And it's definitely been that: I have both the desire and the credentials to go forward with a career in international development.
But I will be ever-so-grateful to India for the other side of development, you know, the one as a person. How strange that moving here is what I needed to grow up, to forgive and forget, to get past myself, to stop worrying, to live for today, to not hate myself anymore.
People ask me if I'd consider going to another country after India. And my response, which surprises even me, is "probably not." Maybe Taiwan or China, given my background. But it's either the States, because it's my home, or else back to India. This country has just so much color and flavor and I have barely scratched the surface in my two years here. But mostly it's that I can never see myself loving another country as much as I have this one, nor even wanting to try. India's given me too much.